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Menno Hornman's Northern and Central Pakistan 2007 Trip Report
 
 MENNO HORNMAN (m.hornman1@gmail.com)
 


Introduction
In October and November 2007 my girlfriend Aniek de Graaf and I independently visited northern and central Pakistan (see map). Why visit Pakistan?? Well, why not! An important reason for us was to visit our friends, who work in Islamabad. But it was also an opportunity to see this little visited country with many western Himalaya and Indus Plain bird specialties.

In this report I’d like to show that Pakistan is definitely underestimated and visiting this country these days is not as diffiult or dangerous as one might think. Travel is easy and Pakistani are one of the most hospitable, helpful and friendly people in the world. Nevertheless, don’t take it lightheartedly. Some areas are off limits (tribal areas) and extra attention is required for some parts of Northwest Frontier Province (NWFP), Baluchistan and Sindh. Recently bombings have taken place in large cities including Islamabad, Rawalpindi and Lahore. Always inform yourself about the latest security situation at your country’s Foreign Ministry (site) and Embassy and check with locals (e.g. hotel staff, who are mostly good and reliable sources). Take normal precautions and be attentive as you do on trips abroad and you‘ll have a fantastic experience. .

Flight
The cheapest option was a flight with Gulf Air from Amsterdam to London (operated by KLM) and from there to Muscat and on to Islamabad (c €620). Although we had 3½ hours in London this was too short for transporting our luggage to the right plane, so in Islamabad unfortunately our luggage turned out be still in London. After two days our luggage arrived at the next flight and without to much hassles we could pick it up.

Visa
A visa (€47) is necessary for most visitors. A visa will only be issued if you show a copy of your return ticket. The visa is valid for most parts of the country, but the tribal areas and (sensitive) border areas are excluded for obvious reasons. Chitral (in NWFP) is situated in a sensitive zone close to the Afghan border, so we needed to register with local Superintendent of Police. The Temporary Registration Form was issued easily and free of charge at the very friendly Foreigners’ Registration at the polie station of Chitral. Along the roads in the north you encounter many army or police checkpoints where you need to register. At these points the police or army is very friendly to tourists (often offering tea on remote spots) and registration never gave any problem (they all wanted to look through your bins, but just for their interest).

Accommodation
Accommodation is widely available in all kind of ranges. In Islamabad we had the advantage to stay with friends. In Shigar we stayed in the expensive, but very scenic Shigar Fort Residence (www.shigarfort.com). In the mountains accommodation was very basic. In Karimabad, Gilgit and Chitral there’s some more choice. In Central Pakistan, especially in large cities, all ranges of accommodation are widely available. We mostly chose mid‐range hotels which are quite cheap in Pakistan.

Transport
All forms of transport are available. We took a flight into the north from Islamabad to Skardu and back from Chitral to Islamabad (with PIA c €50 each way per person) as it saved lots of time and the route from Chitral to Islamabad was not very safe at that time. The flight from Islamabad to Skardu with PIA in a shortened Boeing 737 is considered one of the most spectacular flights. As no radar is used, only at clear days the plane will go, regardless the schedule. The route goes straight towards the huge and high Nanga Parbat (8125m; flying at the same level as the summit!) and quickly descends between the high mountains in the (desert) Skardu valley. One disadvantage of flying is that you have to re‐reconfirm your flight personally at the office of PIA (God knows why). Buses cover the main routes in the country. However, in the mountains buses are not so frequent. Being a birder, renting a car or 4x4 jeep is a good (though not cheap) option as you can take different routes and stop wherever you like. The roads are not always in good condition due to landslides and many roads (except for the KKH) are not paved. Furthermore, some roads are along steep cliff and ravines, so some travel in the north is not for the fainthearted! In Baltit (Skardu) we rented a Toyota Landcruiser with driver for three days to cover the track Shigar – Deosai Plains – Gilgit – Gojal ‐ Khunjerab Pass – Karimabad for €200 ($300) at the hotel. In Skardu you may be able to get a better deal. In Karimabad we negotiated a 4x4 Jeep for 5 days to and around Chitral at Hidden Valley Tours for €200, including a driver and a guide (the latter liked to join us because he expected us to be his last customers before the winter and he wanted to visit some friens in Chitral). Using the service of a guide made things lots easier (e.g. language and re‐reconfirming the flight ticket in Gilgit) and the guide is recommended. In central Pakistan we used buses (mostly of the reliable Daewoo Company). In Multan we rented at taxi and guide to Uch Charif and Panjnad Head. In cities taxis (passenger Suzuki’s), local busses and autorickshaws are widely available. If you don’t like to organize transport yourself, there are some reliable tour operators in the country (see Lonely Planet). Hunza Guides Pakistan is one them (mostly offering mountain expeditions) and they offer very reliable transport as well as tailor made tours.

References
For travel we used Lonely Planet’s Pakistan & the Karakoram Highway (2004 ed.) and Trekking in the Karakoram & Hindukush (2002 ed.). For birding the best field guides are the two volumes Rasmussen Guide (2005, Lynx Edicions), but they are a little too heavy to take along in the field. Therefore I made photocopies of texts of the difficult groups and took the (already used) pocket sized ‘Pocket Guide to the Birds of the Indian Subcontinent’ (2000, Helm) and Krys Kazmiercak’s ‘A Field Guide to the Birds of the Indian Subcontinent’ (2000, Helm Field Guides) with me. The forthcoming Birds of Pakistan (expected Nov 2008, Helm) is derived from the former, with more specified texts. Unfortunately, the excellent two volume ‘The Birds of Pakistan’ by T.J. Roberts is hard to get and even harder to carry, but it is the only good handbook. There is very little information about birding in Pakistan. Pakistan’s short chapter in Nigel Wheatley’s ‘Where to watch birds in Asia’ (Helm, 1996) is still very useful, although Palas Valley for example seems to be off limits now. At the moment, only Birdquest leads birdtrips to Pakistan. It has a very good trip report from the 2005 tour (http://www.birdquest.co.uk/pdfs/report/PAKISTAN%20REP%2005.pdf). Furthermore Anssi Kullberg’s Islamabad Bird Report, 2002 is very valuable (http://www.camacdonald.com/birding/asiapakistan(AnssiTripReport).htm). Also check the site of the recently formed Birdwatchers Club of Pakistan which is pretty helpful (http://www.wildlifeofpakistan.com/PakistanBirdClub/index.html). Detailed accounts of some Pakistan specialities are presented.

Visited sites
ISLAMABAD AREA
The area around the capital is very good for birding. The city itself is very green with lots of trees everywhere and it has broad tree fringed lanes. In and around the garden of my friends house (which is closely situated near the Margalla hills) I observed, amongst others, Hoopoe, Grey Treepie, White‐throated Fantail, Hume’s Warbler, Grey‐hooded warbler, Indian Robin, Jungle Babbler, Long‐tailed Shrike and, surprisingly, a Brown Rock Chat. There are two main birding spots: Margalla Hills and Rawal Lake. Both are easily accessible (by taxi and foot). Nathiagali involves a day trip from the capital.

Margalla Hills
The Margalla Hills are just situated north of the town. The hills reach a height of 1600m and form the beginning of the Himalaya Range. The hills are covered with bushes and low deciduous forest. Good walking trails cover the whole area (check http://bbs.keyhole.com/ubb/showthreaded.php?Number=336693 for a Google earth/maps kmz file of all the trails), although some are not so well maintained (I felt
Himalayan Bulbul, Margalla Hills, 3/11
 a few meters in a ravine when walking alone high up in an overgrown part of a trail from the ridge towards the mosque; fortunately I wasn’t that hurt). We visited the area a few times as it was closely situated near our friends’ house, especially trail 2 to Daman‐e Koh. One of Pakistan specialities, White‐cheeked Tit, has a population in the Margalla Hills. I observed the species twice, both times higher up in the hills: at the ridge trail (2) and near Pirsohawa (3). Along the western ridge trail nice surprises were a female Meadow Bunting and a (skulking) male White‐bellied Redstart. Also, two Striated Prinias were observed. (Fairly) common birds here were Blue‐throated Barbet, Long‐tailed Minivet, Himalayan Bulbul, Rufous Treepie, Bar‐tailed Treecreeper, Spot‐winged Tit, Oriental White‐eye, Hume’s Warbler, Grey‐hooded Warbler, Rusty‐cheeked Scimitar Babbler and Jungle Babbler. Later, further into the mountains near Piroshowa, we took a blocked, dead end road followed by a path eastwards which yielded Ultramarine Flycatcher (3) and Himalayan Red‐flanked Bluetail (3). I observed two males of the latter also at trail 2 in a small gorge covered with dense bushes.

Rawal Lake
Rawal Lake is situated on the eastern side of the city and can easily be reached by taxi. On the north side it is accessible through the new Lake View Park which is very busy in weekends, but still it is good to explore the trees, bushes, reeds and lake. Especially the eastern side of the park is relatively quiet (and under construction).
Hoopoe, Islamabad, 15/10
Unfortunately, I only visited Rawal Lake once (Lake View Park on Friday 2nd of Nov), but still I managed to see some nice species, amongst others White breasted Waterhen, Wryneck (1), Oriental Turtle Dove (2 meena), Shikra, Coppersmith Barbet (2), Blue‐throated Barbet (5), Long‐tailed Shrike, Long‐tailed Minivet (4 males), Blue whistling Thrush (2), Grey Bushchat (male and female), Bar‐tailed Treecreeper (3), Lemon‐rumped Warbler (1), White‐browed Wagtail (2).

Nathiagali
This nicely situated hill resort is situated some three hours driving north of Islamabad in southernmost NWFP. Nathiagali lies in a lower part at the end of the Himalaya Range at 25‐2600m and is part of a remaining relatively large forested area. It can be reached by bus from Abottabad or Rawalpindi (change in Murree), but it is more convenient to take a taxi or rent a car. We were fortunate to join our friends with their own car on Eid Day. We walked along a forest path just at the north side of the ridge. The surroundings of Murree and especially Ayubia NP will probably harbour the
male Himalayan Woodpecker, Nathiagali, 14/10
 same species, if not more. Along the road just west of Ayubia there is magnificent pine and fir forest and here some goodies can be seen from the road. We observed Himalayan Woodpecker, Coppersmith Barbet, Rufous Treepie, Large billed Crow (very common), Raven, White‐cheeked Nuthatch, Spot‐winged Tit and Green‐backed Tit. Along the forested ridge we saw Brown‐fronted Woodpecker (male), Himalayan Woodpecker (2), Scaly‐bellied Woodpecker (3), White‐eyed Buzzard, Yellow‐billed Blue Magpie (20), White‐cheeked Nuthatch (15), Bar‐tailed Treecreeper (4), Spot‐winged Tit (>50), Rufous‐naped Tit (3).

NORTHERN AREAS
The Northern Areas, part of Kashmir, is Pakistan’s most northern district. It offers, besides stunning mountain scenery, some great and often restricted bird species, due to its favorable position. Valleys with original vegetation (forest and bushes) are good for birding. High altitude species are, like always, hard to find. .

Shigar
Shigar is beautifully situated in the Shigar Valley near Skardu in Baltistan, Northern Areas at 2400m. The fertile land bordering the river contrasts with the dry surrounding land and mountains. In October the birdlife is not very rich here, but there are still some nice species present. We birded the fertile land, the tree filled village and the garden of the Fort. The garden held a male Tickell’s Thrush, Blue Whistling Thrush (2 singing males), Nightjar (1), Mountain Chiffchaff (2), Hume’s Warbler (2), Streaked Laughingthrush (10) and 4 caniceps Goldfinches. Alpine Chough (>2), Chough (200), Craig Martin (20) and Booted Eagle (2) flew overhead. Next day we birded the path along the Bauma Lungma (river) into the mountains. In some dense Hippophae bushes along the river (at 2430m) I discovered my first (a male and a female) White‐browed Tit Warblers, first skulking but finally with superb views, together with a Brown Accentor. Furthermore we saw Brown Dipper (1), personata White Wagtail (male), Red‐throated Flycatcher (2), White capped Water Redstart (1), Blue Whistling Thrush (4), Hume’s Warbler (2), Chiffchaff spec (2). Magpie and Great Tit were common in the village.

Satpara Valley
The unpaved track from Skardu (2290m) towards the high altitude plateau of Deosai (>4000m) follows the steep Satpara Valley. The landscape is very dry. There are some bushes along the river where there is no grazing. On some parts of the slopes higher up grow junipers. At 3100m (N 35° 9'29.48" E 75°36'33.16") at the best Hippophae bush along the whole track, we observed a flock of 6 males White‐winged Redstarts together with 4 (2 males+ 2 females) White‐browed Tit Warblers, 4 Red‐fronted Serins and a Brown Accentor. A little further, 4 Robin Accentors and a male Blue‐capped Redstart could be well observed in some juniperus. At 3800m a Dipper was present.

Deosai National Park
Deosai NP comprises an immense (3630 sq km), grassy, high altitude plateau which is nowhere lower than 4000m. The park is a refuge for the rare Himalayan Brown Bear. Deosai plain is snowbound for about 8 months a year. As a result, bird life is very poor. Shore Lark is common in the summer, but already almost absent in October. We observed only two birds. Beside the larks, only a Dipper, three migrating Heuglin’s Gulls (at 4200m at Sheosar Lake) and a female Desert Wheatear at 4180m are worth mentioning (but the views were fantastic).

Astor Valley
From the 4266m high Sheosar Pass we left the Deosai plain and entered a side valley of the rough and remote Astor Valley. From the Sheosar pass you have stunning views of the Nanga Parbat (8125m). The upper Astor valley is quite gentile sloping, but it is getting steeper and steeper towards the Indus valley and the Karakoram Highway (KKH). There are some forest fragments which can be quite good for birds
Larger‐spotted Nutcracker, Chitral Gol NP, 26/10
 (e.g. around Astor, but we didn’t visit them). In the upper valley we passed some parts with junipers and rocks (34‐3600m) with at least 8 Robin Accentors and 15 Rock Buntings in total. In the Pine‐Juniper zone I observed a nice Larger‐spotted Nutcracker (multipunctata, which is even whiter than on the plates), a flock of 20 Plain Mountain Finches, Rock Bunting (5), Large‐billed Crow (20) and Alpine Chough (10). In villages Streaked Laughingthrush, Blue Whistling‐thrush, Great Tit, Large‐billed Crow and Magpie were present. In the lower Astor Valley (Astor village to KKH) a Himalayan Accentor, 30 Crag Martins, a Streaked Laughingthrush and a male personata White Wagtail were observed.

Karakoram Highway & Khunjerab Pass
The famous and spectacular Karakoram Highway stretches for more than 800km in Pakistan from Havelian to the Khunjerab Pass on te border with China at a mind‐blowing 4934m. The pass is closed in winter from 31 October to 1 May (but check), so, on the the 20th we were just in time. The road itself follows the Indus and the Hunza Valley, which cross the very high and steep Karakoram Range. Famous mountains directly bordering the KKH are Nanga Parbat (8125m, 7 kilometers higher than the road) and Rakaposhi (7790m, still 5500 meters higher than the road). The valley bottom is fertile with arable land, poplars, fruit trees and bushes. Higher up, only Hippophae bushes border the river and streams and junipers on some the slopes. Nevertheless most of the immense landscape consists of bare rocks and higher up also some huge glaciers and snow. As a result in this harsh landscape birdlife isn’t abundant. Nevertheless, some good species can be seen.

Between Gilgit and Hunza (between Sultanabad and Jutal, in gentle sloping rocky terrain on the east side of the road) we observed at least two Hume’s Wheatears and a Wallcreeper. As it gets higher from Gulmit onwards, other species appear. Between Gulmit and Gojal we saw a Brown Accentor, two Scaly‐bellied Woodpeckers, a high Hoopoe, a Little Owl (in rocky, uninhabited terrain) and at least 15 White‐winged Redstarts (mostly two males together, once a flock of four females) in Hippophae bushes along the road.

The last part of the road, from Sust to Khunjerab Pass through Khunjerab National Park, crosses very steep gorges and steep, barren, rocky and snow covered slopes. I checked the slopes frequently for Himalayan Snowcock, but this is definitely the worst time to find the species as they are at their highest up into the mountain (just before winter) and they don’t call, so no bird was seen at all during the trip. (Willow) Forest is only present in some parts along the river, for example at the checkpoint of Dhee, were we saw a Chaffinch (which is a good species here!), together with two Red‐fronted Serins (which I personally prefer...). The highlight was my find of fresh tracks of Snow Leopard along the road in a muddy part of the river at c 3700m! Unfortunately we did not find this mythical animal. Further, we observed a few Brown Accentors, a Golden Eagle, a fine Himalayan Griffon and two flocks (3 and c30) of winter plumaged Brandt’s Mountain Finches. At the pass in the cold plateau at 4934m only two Rosy Pipits and a soaring Lammergeier were present. Near the pass a group of Himalayan Ibex foraged along the road. On the way back we stayed some days in the Hunza Valley. This fertile valley along the KKH is beautifully situated and therefore it is one of the most touristic places in North Pakistn ‐ all in perspective, of course. Especially at this time of the year the scenery was fantastic since all trees were red and yellow. However, from a birder point of view this time of the year is relatively poor with only the few resident species (Carrion Crow, Alpine Chough, Chough, Magpie, Great Tit, Blue Whistling Thrush, Streaked Laughingthrush, caniceps Goldfinch and Rock Bunting) present which you find in most valleys here at this altitude (cf Shigar, Skardu, Astor etc.). Further, the path to Ultar Meadow ‐ through a steep gorge with Hippophae and other bushes along the stream – yielded a White‐capped Water Redstart, a fine male Blue‐capped Redstart, a Hume’s Warbler and three Tree Pipits. Unfortunately after an hour walking the path was blocked due to a land slide.

Ghizar & Laspur Valley
Both river valleys lie en route from Gilgit to Chitral. They are separated by the Shandur Pass at 3810m, which is only one of the two gateways to Chitral. In the lower parts you cross villages and agricultural land. Higher up there is typical mountain landscape with very dry slopes with some bushes and still some agricultural activity. The river valley is bordered by bushes and trees. The high plateau and river valley at and near the pass is covered with moist and rocky grassland. Highlights were a male Plumbeous Water Redstart, 2 White‐ capped Water Redstarts, two Wall Creepers, a Blue Rock Thrush and a Long‐tailed Shrike. Higher up (from c3000m) White‐winged Redstarts appeared again. We saw at least 18 birds in small (2‐7) flocks in bushes and on the rocks in the meadows near the pass. Three Hume’s Larks were present on the pass in a flock of 50 Shore larks. Furthermore, flocks of Shore Lark (>100), Red‐fronted Serin (2 in willows and roses at a small stream at 3450m), Brown Accentor (4), Plain Mountain Finch (2) and Twite (>50), Rock Bunting (>50) were observed during the trip. .

CHITRAL
The Chitral District, situated in Pakistan’s northwest corner in the Hindu Kush mountain range along the Afghan border, is remote and isolated. It is only accessible by air or by two high mountain passes. In 2007 only 1000 tourists (33 Dutch), including expats and diplomats, made it up here (we were 1009 and 1010). Because of its remoteness development is relatively slow. According to distribution maps many good ‘Himalayan’ species are present, especially high forest birds. We visited two areas: The famous Kalasha Valley of Bumboret and Chitral Gol National Park. The latter turned out to be the best birding area visited during this trip.

Chitral Gol National Park
Chitral Gol NP is a very beautiful park just 30 kilometers NW of Chitral town close to the Afghan border. It is quite easily reached by following the (first paved and good, later gravel and narrow!) road winding up the mountain, which starts at PIA Chowk in

male  Blyth’s  Rosefinch,  Chitral  Gol  NP,  26/10

Chitral town. Nevertheless, hardly any foreigners make it up all the way to here. In 2007 we were only the second and third foreigner visiting the park office at Chaghbini (at 2925m) that year. The landscape is stunning, the cedar forest is fantastic and bird life is very good, even in October. We observed lots of sought‐after bird here. Besides, this is THE place to see Snow Leopard (although we didn’t...). Later, I found out that BBC’s Life of Mammals fantastic Leopards shots were taken here. January is the month in which it is said you have the biggest chance (1 out of 2) to see this magnificient creature here. In January most of the Chitral Markhors, the main prey of the leopard, have moved down into in the valley en they are followed by 1 to 3 animals. In October we were joined by the warden and observed quite a few Chitral Markhors (IUCN categorized ‘Endangered’), but, despite intensive searching, no leopard.

The entrance road crosses the Mountain Oak zone. Here we found flocks of Waterpipit (8) and Black‐headed Jays (2 and 4) and three superb Spectacled Finches, the latter foraging along the road in grass at 2400m. We walked the level trail from the warden’s house over the ridge to a saddle at the Ishperudeh stream through fantastic Cedar nd Pine forest. Higher up grow junipers. In some places Hazel is present in the undergrowth. Here we found >8 skulking Black‐throated Accentors. In the Cedar–Pine forest we observed, amongst others, Black‐throated Thrush (>25 migrating birds; once a flock of 20 birds), Mistle Thrush (2), Himalayan Woodpecker (2),

Scaly‐bellied Woodpecker (1), Large‐billed Crow (40), Alpine Chough (5), casiotus Wood Pigeon (>150), Snow Pigeon (4), Sparrowhawk, Golden Eagle (2 ad), Larger‐spotted Nutcracker (6), Blue‐capped Redstart (2), Kashmir Nuthatch (4), White cheeked Nuthatch (6), Rufous‐naped Tit (>15), Spot‐winged Tit (>30), Chaffinch (2), Brambling (2), Linnet (4), a marvelous flock of >300 Plain Mountain Finches, Blyth’s Rosefinch (a male and two females), White‐winged Grosbeak (4, at least 2 males) and an Orange Bullfinch.
male Kashmir Nuthatch, Chitral Gol NP, 26/10 

Bumboret Valley
The Bumboret Valley is one of the three intriguing Kalasha Valleys. The Kalasha are a non Muslim community. The Kalasha live in three fertile mountain valleys very close to the Afghan border. Although we visited the site for cultural reasons, some nice birds were observed. At the graveyard in Krakal I found a Brooke’s Leaf‐warbler in a ‘flock’ of at least 30 Hume’s Warbler. Five White‐cheeked Tits were present in a mixed species flock between Batrik and Brun. Two soaring Lammergeiers, 4 White‐capped Water‐redstarts and a Citrine Wagtail were also observed.

PUNJAB
The lowlands of Punjab offer good birding. Especially the rivers and fresh water areas are good and offer some restricted species. However, we’ve hardly birded here as most visits were in large cities and with a more cultural goal. Still, some good species were observed. Many birds were seen from the bus, during transportation (and stops) between cities which cross mostly through agricultural landscape and villages.
Bank Myna, Faisalabad, 1/11
 Panjnad Head and surroundings was, quite briefly, visited by taxi (from Multan to Uch). Good birds seen in Punjab were Brown Rock Chat (I was surprised to see this species that regularly in villages in Punjub around Multan) and two forms (capistrata and ophistioleuca) of Variable Wheatear (I already saw many picata in S Iran).

Panjnad head
At Panjnad Head (as is in the name) five rivers and channels come together. There are extensive reed beds here. Along the road channel, there are pools with lush vegetation. Here we observed Pheasant‐tailed Jacana (1), Indian River Tern (2), Streak‐throated Swallow (3), Wire‐tailed Swallow (1), Oriental Honey Buzzard (1), Brown‐fronted Woodpecker (1), Clamorous Reed Warbler (4 singing), Plain Prinia (8), Yellow‐bellied Prinia (1), Rufous‐vented Prinia (>2), Striated Babbler (a flock of 7) and Sind Sparrow (2), which was quite good considering the unfavorable time of the day (during the hottest hours) and the short time of the visit.

Itinerary

11 October 2008: flight Amsterdam – Islamabad, stop‐over London and Muscat
12 October 2008: morning arrival Islamabad; Islamabad; slept in friends’ home
13 October 2008: Islamabad, birded Margalla Hills Ridge trail down to Faisal Mosque; slept at friends’ home
14 October 2008: (Eid Day) Islamabad, day trip to Nathiagali; slept at friends’ home 15 October 2008: Islamabad; slept in friends’ home
16 October 2008: flight Islamabad – Skardu. Transfer to Shigar; slept in Shigar Fort 17 October 2008: Shigar, trail along Bauma Lungma; slept in Shigar Fort
18 October 2008: jeep Shigar – Skardu – Satpara Valley – Deosai NP – Astor Valley, slept in Astor
19 October 2008: jeep Astor – KKH ‐ Gilgit – Karimabad – Gulmit, slept in Gulmit
20 October 2008: jeep Gulmit – Khunjerab Pass – Karimabad, slept in Karimabad
21 October 2008: Karimabad, slept in Karimabad
22 October 2008: Karimabad, trail to Ultar Meadow, slept in Karimabad
23 October 2008: jeep Karimabad – Gilgit – Ghizar Valley to Phandur, slept in Phandur
24 October 2008: jeep Phandur– Shandur Pass – Chitral, slept in Chitral
25 October 2008: Chitral, Kalasha Valley, slept in Chitral
26 October 2008: Chitral, Chaghbini Chitral Gol NP, slept in Chitral
27 October 2008: flight Chitral – Islamabad, taxi to Rawalpindi, and bus to Lahore, slept in Lahore
28 October 2008: Lahore, visit Old City, slept in Lahore
29 October 2008: Lahore, visit cricket match Pakistan ‐ South Africa, slept in Lahore 30 October 2008: bus Lahore – Multan, slept in Multan
31 October 2008: taxi Multan – Panjnad Head – Uch Charif, slept in Multan
1 November 2008: bus Multan – Rawalpindi, taxi to Islamabad, slept at friends’ home 2 November 2008: Islamabad, Rawal Lake, slept at friends’ home
3 November 2008: Islamabad, Trail 2 Margalla Hills (to Daman‐e Koh), slept at friends’ home
4 November 2008: flight back to Amsterdam, with stop‐overs in Al Manamah (Bahrain) and London

To view complete Bird List from this trip please click here:

All photo’s were taken by the author. Altitudes were measured with a Suunto Observer

The Complete Trip Report can be download in pdf form by clicking here

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Updated 02/22/2009